Method of making welt shoes



Aug. 26, 1969 A. GLl-CKMAN METHOD OF MAKING WELT SHOES 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 6, 1967 JMOM {72-12% BY A ATTORNEY s- 9 I A. ucmm 3,462,783.

METHOD OF MAKING WELT SHOES Filed Sept; 6, 1967 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 .emai Z" w ATTORNEY United States Patent 3,462,783 METHOD OF MAKING WELT SHOES Arnold Glickman, 73 Jackson Ave., Rockville Centre, N.Y. 11570 Filed Sept. 6, 1967, Ser. No. 665,868 Int. Cl. A43d 9/00 US. Cl. 12-142 2 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of making Goodyear welt shoes which consists in placing a shoe upper on a last, supporting the assembly with an insole positioned under the last, the insole carrying a marginal downwardly-projecting rib disposed inwardly of the edge of the insole, providing a Wiper-resistance member as an element of said support, the resistance member generally conforming with the contour of the last at its lower base-edge, said resistance member entering the area of the insole inwardly of said rib and closely adjacent thereto, and having an inwardly tapered edge, pulling the margins of the upper over the insole edge and outwardly of the rib, previously applying cement intermediate the outer face of the insole rib and the area of the upper margins pulled thereover, and on at least one of the two, exerting inwardly directed action of a wiper, edge conformed with the resistance member, against the upper and forcing an intermediate area of its margins under the outer edge of the insole and against the outer face of the rib, While said action is opposed by the resistance member with time-heat interval of the wiper to form a bond, removing the last, and stitching the assembly through the welt, through the inwardly directed bonded formation of the upper margin, and through the rib close to its apex, to be followed by assembling a filler and outsole to the assembly.

The invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a schematic view, showing in succession an insole with its inset rib, a welt, a filler piece, an outer sole and a heel, all of which when assembled with an upper form a Goodyear welt shoe.

FIGURE 2 is a transverse section through a Goodyear welt shoe in accordance with the present invention, the section being taken on a transverse line somewhat rearwardly of the toe of the shoe, and showing section of a last (removed from the assembly preliminarily to the stitching operation) FIGURE 3 is a top plan view, partly in dotted lines and partly broken way, showing the forepart of a shoe in full lines and one form of wiper which can be used in the manufacturing operation.

FIGURE 4 is a view in elevation, and partly in section on the line 4-4, FIGURE 3, the view having added thereto gripper members for pulling down margins of the upper preliminary to the action of the wiper. In this view the support with its resistance member, has been lowered for clarity of illustration.

FIGURE 5 is a vertical action section taken on the line 5-5, FIG. 3.

FIGURE 6 is a view similar to FIGURE 5 showing the opposed grippers acting with a pull on the upper margins to a greater extent than in FIGURE 5.

FIGURE 7 is a view similar to FIGURE 6 showing release of the grippers at or immediately preceding action of the wiper on the upper margins.

In FIGURES 5, 6 and 7, cement is indicated as on the exterior face of the insole rib.

Referring to FIGURE 1 of the drawings, primary elements of Goodyear welt shoe are shown, without the upper. At 1 is shown an insole to which has been secured,

Patented Aug. 26, 1969 ice by any suitable means, an insole rib 2. It will be noted that the rib extends downwardly and is inset relatively to the outer edge of the insole, an inset degree of one quarter inch being satisfactory. Under the insole 1 is shown a welt 3. Below the welt is a filler piece 4, followed by the designation of an outsole 5 and a heel 6.

The abstract of my method given at the opening of this specification, sets forth its salient steps, and for comparison with the Goodyear welt lasting which has continued for many decades, and is in common use now, I should state the following:

The first operation in said known Goodyear welt lasting, consists in assembling the upper to the last by a temporary method, the steamed upper being held by tack means projected into the rear of the last. The operator then, by machine operation, temporarily pulls the margins of the upper down over the last, stretching the upper. At this point tacks are applied to the upper sides and into the last to hold the margins down. At this point the assembly is moved from the pullover machine. After said removal, the assembly is taken to a welt lasting machine. The tacks being removed, this machine wipes the marginal area against the rib of the insole and simultaneously feeds a wire or nylon cord to measured length and cuts it. The wipers recede, the wire or cord is tensioned and pulled against the upper margin at insole rib. At this stage stapling mechanical units are brought into position and are operated to drive staples over the ends of the wire or cord and through the insole rib. The wire or cord holds the upper in position for stitching, which operation is generally followed by insertion of the filler.

The present invention eliminates the temporary pullover and application of tacks, use of a wire or cord, and the tensioning, cutting and stapling thereof, followed by trimming the excess ends gripped in tensioning, and subsequent removal of a wire, when used.

When a nylon cord is used, with its required dense and strong characteristic, or the wire is used, the chain-stitch needle must enter the upper below the lower edge of the wire or cord. In other words, either of said elements forms an obstruction. Elimination of the wire or cord by the present invention is very important, not only because operations are eliminated and material cost, and stitching is facilitated, but because my operation permits the upper to lay into the rib at an almost perfect angle. This could not be achieved previously because the wire or cord prevented the upper margin from filling such volumetric area, and by means of the present method the stitching seam can be placed into the apex of the rib which heretofore has not been possible.

Returning to the drawings, in FIGURES 5 to 7 inclusive the usual lining of the upper has not been shown, for clarity of illustration. FIGURES 4 and 5 show the upper lower-margins 8 engaged by the pull-clamps 9 and the wiper elements in position. In FIGURE 6, the support 10 has been raised and its resistance member 10 engaged with the insole and rib, the pull-clamps having been moved downwardly. In FIGURE 7, showing the next step, the pull-clamps 9 are released from the upper simultaneously with wiping force on the upper margins against the rib and the cement indicated in FIGURES 5 and 6 at 11. This cement preferably is heat-pressure sensitive, and the wiper pressure surfaces in such case are heated. At a heat of 350 F. the wiper may remain with its active pressure engagement a time of only about 6 seconds to make the bond.

Any suitable form of wiper may be employed. That shown in FIG. 3 is illustrative. It consists of five segments 12 pivoted together at 12*, the end segments being pivotally connected to link 14 engaged by shaft 15 leading 3 to means for advancing and retracting line 14. By this form the wiper is adapted for various sizes of shoes.

It will be noted from FIGURE 5 that the resistance member is slightly tapered out at its edge and that the wiper edges conform therewith. This arrangement aids the securing of the desired 90 inset of the upper margins as hereintobefore referred to.

Whilst the long continued method of welt-lasting required at least two machines, one for temporary pull-over and tacking from which the upper assembly was removed to a second machine for final pull-over, tacking the upper at its sides to the last, wiping, releasing the wipers and applying tensioning, and cutting a cord (or wire), stapling the cord ends, with trimming off excess cord ends, my method eliminates many mechanical operations, provides better result and lower cost.

It will be understood that in employment of my method various modifications may be made in the elements illustrated in the drawings, without departure from the spirit of the invention.

Having described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

1. A method of making welt shoes which consists in placing a shoe upper on a last, supporting the assembly with an insole positioned under the last, the insole carrying a marginal rib formed with a downwardly projecting lip disposed inwardly of the edge of the insole, providing a wiper-resistance member as an element of said support, the resistance member generally conforming with the contour of the last at its lower base edge, said resistance member entering the area of the insole inwardly of said rib and closely adjacent thereto, pulling the margins of the upper over the insole edge and outwardly of the rib, previously applying cement intermediate the outer face of the insole rib and the area of the upper margins pulled thereover, and on at least one of the two, simultaneously releasing the tension-pull of the margins of the upper and exerting inwardly directed action of a wiper against the upper and thereby forcing an intermediate area of its margins under the outer edge of the insole and against the outer face of the rib, while such action is opposed by the resistance member with time interval of the wiper to form a bond, removing the last, and stitching the assembly through the welt, through the inwardly directed bonded formation of the upper margin, and through the apex joining the rib and its lip, to be followed by assembling a filler and outsole to the assembly.

2. A method of making Goodyear welt shoes in accordance with claim 1 in which the pressure of the wiper member upon the upper margins is in a plane angularly related to the insole rib in that the initial pressure contact is applied substantially at the apex joining the rib lip with the body of the rib.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,053,120 9/ 1936 Valentine. 2,832,975 5/ 1958 Pearsall et al. 2,980,931 4/ 1961 Gilbride 12-142 3,315,288 4/1967 Forma 12-145 PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner 

